Coming and Going

Returning to Kenya was as intense, if not more so, than my first visit. Within a week of being back I had drank more than I had in the previous months (combined), acquired a burn the size of a novel, and even made some new friends.

My second night back in Kenya I went to a Halloween party where I caught up with almost all of my old friends, had an incredible time, but unfortunately was where I also seared off a chunk of my leg on a BBQ. The next day, amidst one hell of a hangover, I realized that the night before had pretty much epitomised life out in Kenya, and what I would be facing over the coming months… It was exciting, busy, crazy, a little scary, fun and very painful, but worth every second! The burn took weeks to heal and I got to experience Kenyan healthcare - one thing is for sure they are efficient, and don't deal with whining. As if the burn itself didn't hurt enough they cleaned it with hydrogen peroxide, who knew skin could fizz like that! But the burn healed quickly and I must admit I was very impressed with the level of care. And what's more I was now on first name terms with the doctor and some of the nurses, which can only be a good thing.

Not a pretty sight, but luckily healed ok

Over the next few weeks I settled back into my African life. The first couple of weeks were very odd, it looked as though nothing had changed since I had been away, but everything felt different. The people were the same, what everyone did was still the same but nothing felt the same. I realised that the main reason for this was me. I had returned with a new focus and confidence in what I was doing and towards my life out in Kenya. I was now back knowing what I had to do, and with the spring in my step that can only come from having been home. But it was now time to make Kenya my home, and crack on with what was quite literally a mountain of work.


The next few months between my return and the Christmas break I got back into the swing of Coastal life. Mixing in a few parties and social events with work. In the space of two months I drove miles around my sites, met with a host of Village Elders, potential field staff and local governmental officials. I figured out my work plan for the rest of my field season and got more work done than I had believed possible. In addition during this time I transformed myself from vampire to 70’s porn star (with a pearl necklace that was lost on many of the party goers), to Pirate, to black tie not to mention thanksgiving dinner and attending a range of charitable events, including the legendary Movember event in Mombasa with some of the finest moustaches I have seen in a very long time!

Pearl necklaces and wonderful wigs

Mullets, Moustaches and builders!

Our glorious hosts doing 70's porn to it's finest

My attempt at the Jolly Roger!

Pirating it up

Black tie and Bond Girls

Awesome Mo's!

As I often seem to do, at this time I found that my social life mirrored that of my work life. I have found, as many people might, that when my work is going well I find that I approach life in a much more positive way, and as such have far more fun both at work and in life. During this time I was able to get so much organised and set in place for the start of my data collection in the New Year. At the same time I met a whole group of new people – it turns out the coast is not only an incredible place to live and work, but it’s where most people not from the coast chose to head on their vacation. So I met people from Nairobi and around the country, as well as those from further afield.

I also began to explore Kilifi and make a great little band of friends there, making Kilifi feel as much home (if not more so) as Mombasa ever did. With my new little group I began to go cycling at the weekend, swimming and having after work drinks. It began to feel as though life out here was normal and I felt as though I had never been away. Life bounded on at its usual speed, or I should say my usual speed, until unfortunately, after a wonderful weekend, I came down with Malaria, which threw me for a loop. I don't think I have ever felt so bad in my life. Although it only takes 3 days for the medication to work, it takes weeks to fully recover.

Down at the Takaungu Creek on a ride round Kilifi

Luckily, not long after this when feeling rough and low (both about life and work) and whilst still properly recovering, Seline (my friend who is doing her PhD in Malawi) came to visit. It turns out that, especially when you feel wretched, it helps every now and again to have a little reminder of home, and/or someone who knows you well and can sympathise with what you are going through. Luckily for me Seline is all the above, and we had the most wonderful time. It set me up for the next few weeks before the Christmas break, and was exactly what I had needed.

Seline and I after a day on the water

After Seline's visit I felt invigorated about my work, and re-found the enthusiasm I had come back to Kenya with. I settled back into my work and life again, making the effort I should have been making towards both but had been severely lacking since getting ill. With Seliene just an email away and realising I could now turn to my new little group of friends when needed I dived back into work for the remaining working weeks of the month, and got my life back in order. It is true what they say - wherever you are, and whatever you do, it is essential to have a support network around you. And I had now discovered that on top of my fiends and family abroad I had my own little group here too.

Home Part Three: Work and Play Across Europe

Following the wedding I had less than a month and a half before my return to Kenya. If anything this was going to be the most hectic part of the trip. My return to Canterbury was a hectic mix of work and play. An intense month saw me cramming in hours of database entry, analysis, meetings and copious amounts of writing as well as discovering the joys of the Goods Shed! I had many wonderful lunches with the girls from my department, and some great nights out with them and other uni friends.

Gorgeous deserts at the Goods Shed

Artistic creation by Jordan Amirkhani - result of a productive day shopping

Kirsten's awesome birthday cake - not sure who's smile is bigger !

I also managed to spend time in London and Oxford catching up with my sister, and some of my closest friends. Although I had a truly wonderful time I was also reminded of all that I miss when I am away. Luckily though I was also reminded that even if I spend a lot of my time away I do not lose those who mean the most to me and I am left with the one of the greatest pleasures of returning – catching up with the people you care the most about when I’m back.

Oriel Guest Night Dinner with the Gorgeous Elizabeth Russel

My last few weeks back I decided to combine a little more work and pleasure, but this time through Europe. First I stopped in Nijmegen in The Netherlands. It was a surreal weekend where I got to catch up with my partners of crime from our time in Kenya, Sinead and Kim. We had a great time exploring the city, spending time together, riding bikes of death, making our own sushi, going speed dating and meeting a lot of new people.

Making Sushi!

My partner in crime!

Yummy Raw Fish

Freshly made Stropwaffels! So yummy.

After my time in The Netherlands I made my way by train to Zurich to attend the first Sacred Natural Sites Symposium. On my arrival I headed into town to work on my presentation and caught up with an old MSc buddy who was also attending the symposium. I had 3 wonderful days in Zurich. I hadn’t returned to the Zurich in nearly 10 years since my parents had lived there. So along with the work that was to be done I also got to explore and remember the city. I was staying just round the corner from where my parents used to live and my hosts kids even went to the school that my brother had been to. It was great to see everything again, and see all that remained the same, and all that had changed.

Zurich lake

The symposium was a huge success. My presentation went down well, I got great feedback and ideas for my research, made some fantastic new contacts and even found myself agreeing to be in charge of setting up a young professionals group and starting up a Sacred Sites Newsletter. Once the symposium was done I had a day to explore the city and reminisce once more before returning home. Ashley (my friend from Oxford) came with me for some of the exploring including a most indulgent trip to the Sprugli café (the only place where it feels wrong NOT to enjoy gold-leaf coated chocolate).

Awesome Sprugli Chocolates

After Ashley left I had a little time before my return home and my last night before heading back to Africa. I got myself my favourite Swiss snack (bratwurst) and sat by the lake in the sunshine. I then went wandering through the streets, past some gorgeous shops and found a great place to sit, read my book, listen to some music and look over the lake and the city. I perched atop a wall above the lake and could see the whole city – it was such a peaceful and lovely spot, I began to feel very smug! But as they say pride comes before a fall, and for me it was not so metaphorical. No, I didn’t fall into the lake (I know some of you would have loved that!), but when shifting to relieve a numb bum I didn’t keep a very good eye on all my things, and as I moved my I-pod slipped from my lap and into the waters of the Zurich lake. There was a split second where I nearly went in after it, then some rather embarrassing scrambling as I tried to work out how I could reach it, followed by what felt like hours watching it shimmer from the bed of the lake, screen shining as though proud of itself for having landed so close by. As its case slowly drifted into the middle of the lake I continued to stare at the I-pod until I realised there were increasing numbers of people staring at me. I decided now would be a very good time to make my way to the airport.

Yummy Bratwurst!

For all the Kenyan's who read my blog - A little more posh than our Bamburi!

A shop after my own heart!

My Ipod, in it's final resting place at the bottom of the Zurich lake

My return home was not my smoothest of evenings. Instead of getting the train into London, I somehow get myself onto a bus, only half way into the journey did I realise it would take me twice the time to get into town, and therefore would miss my dinner booking with Mum, Louise, one of my best friends Elizabeth and my step niece Jess. I therefore had to jump off the bus onto a tube and run through half of London with all my things to make it only one hour late for dinner. Although everyone was a little tired it was a wonderful evening and the best way to spend my last night in England. As I said goodbye to Elizabeth and made my way back to Louise’s with her Mum and Jess I couldn’t believe that my 2 months had passed, and that I had actually achieved everything I had planned in such a short space in time. I had never envisioned my trip back as being a holiday, but one thing was for sure, I’d probably need a little time to recover.