Jambo Nairobi

A few things I learnt on my first few days in Kenya:

1) Cities are not always warmer than the coast
2) Africa can charge a fortune for things we can buy for pocket change at home
3) It is going to take me quite a while to get used to Kenyan time again
4) Just because people say they will do something, doesn’t necessarily mean they will do it to your time-frame or in fact at all
5) For every few people who get in your way, or make life hard, there is normally at least one person willing to help out
6) Baby elephants are very cute!

Waking up in Nairobi I was surprised to find, that although warm, I did not feel I was going to melt... After waiting over half an hour for a very overcooked breakfast, I was in fact a little cool (and hungry), and had even gone as far as digging out a cardy. After eating I got my things together and made my way to the National Council for Science and Technology to pick up my research visa. Or so I thought...

One thing I have noticed, is that wherever there is governmental business going on in Kenya, there are soldiers with very big guns. Even though I have not done anything wrong, whenever I walk past a soldier with a gun (or in fact any type of policeman/soldier/guard) I always get very nervous. However it appears that in Kenya, although they come with heavy weaponry, the guards are often very nice and helpful people. Following simple instructions, I found my way up to the relevant office and sitting in a chair waiting to be seen. After a rummage through the quite staggering number of files that the department had on research being done in Kenya, and trolling through the books (with only one computer and everything being done via paper, I now see why I couldn’t just email things across), it was discovered, that not only was my permit not ready to collect, but they had not yet received my application or the research permit fee from the National Museums of Kenya, and as such there was no permit for me to collect. Apparently all I could do was go to NMK and try to find out what the hold-up at their end was. I was escorted to NMK by a lovely gentleman from the fisheries department, who assured me that it was not unusual for this sort of thing to happen, and that I shouldn’t worry. 

Sitting in the reception area of the office of the gentleman who had been dealing with my permit application, I hoped that finally progress would be made. However after the briefest possible conversation (he clearly was not pleased to see me), which was conducted with him in his doorway and me stuck outside his office, I was told that the cheque had not been processed by the finance department yet, and that there was nothing that could be done. I should go to Mombasa, not worry about it and they would sort it. I did not need to be here. I could maybe go to immigrations to find out about my student visa, but otherwise there was nothing for me to do but wait.

Not surprisingly this was not the news I had hoped for, but there seemed nothing more I could do. I went home, and tried to get in touch with the immigrations office. After ringing 6 different numbers, being hung up on numerous times, I finally found out where I should go the next day to find the information I needed. For the rest of the day all I could do was sit and wait.

The next day I was called for breakfast. This time I was late. I ate, packed my things, and again, headed back into town. This time to immigrations, yet again hoping things here would be a little simpler. After finally finding where Aliens were meant to go, I was standing in a queue waiting to find out about a Pupils Pass. The woman at the desk was even less pleased to see me than the gentleman the day before. I got the feeling that international students and researchers were not these peoples favourite groups. I was told quite simply, that once I received my research permit I was to send in my application for my Pupils Pass. This would then take around one month to process, at which point I was to return to Nairobi and collect my pass. I would not be allowed to do any research during this time. I asked if I was still able to attend my language course that I had planned to start the following week. I was assured that if I undertook any classes or training before my Pupils Pass was issued, I would be in violation of my tourist visa and I would be sent home. I was not allowed to do any work or training until my pass had been issued. In short, for the next month and a half (at least) I was stuck in Kenya unable to do any of the things I had come out to do, and my research was to be put on hold.

I was devastated. I got back to the B&B and after having a little cry, I emailed my supervisors to tell them what was happening. For now I was stuck in Nairobi with nothing to do, heading for Mombasa in two days time where I would be unable to do anything, and without the funds, I was not able to go back to the UK whilst I waited. The replies were kind, but obviously they were not pleased. I sent out a message on facebook, and the replies there were much more positive. A number of people asked me why exactly I was not happy that I was being forced to take a break whilst staying on the coast and more still were coming in with ideas what to do, including ideas as to how to fill my time. Following one such message, I decided that on my last day, instead of fretting about things I could not change, I would go to the Sheldrick Elephant orphanage.

 

The orphanage was interesting. They have elephants from all over Kenya, which they raise at the orphanage, each elephant having its own keeper to raise it. They stay at the orphanage until they are 2 years old, and then are moved to Tsavo, where they are then slowly re-introduced back into the wild.

 

After leaving the orphanage we went to Kazuri workshops. Here they make ceramic beads and crafts. It was set up to provide income for single women in Nairobi, and now exports its goods around the world. It is known mainly for the beautiful jewellery that they make. I spent hours wandering round the factory, and then spent way too much money in the shop! It was a wonderful way to spend my last day in Nairobi.

 

 

Emma xxx